How to Drill Into Concrete With a Hammer Drill

On this page (10 sections)

1. How do you drill into concrete step by step?
2. What drill and bit do you need for concrete?
3. How do you choose a masonry bit for concrete?
4. How do you set up a concrete drilling job?
5. How do you keep the hole straight and clear?
6. How deep should a concrete hole be?
7. What should you do if the bit sticks or hits metal?
8. Can you use a regular drill for a concrete hole?
9. What mistakes should you avoid when drilling concrete?
10. How to drill into concrete: which setup should you choose?

To drill into concrete, use a hammer drill with a hammer-rated masonry bit, mark the hole, and work steadily. Check the wall for hidden wires and pipes first, and stop if the bit hits metal or the concrete starts to crack.

The right tool depends on how many holes you need, their size, and whether you already own compatible batteries. The right bit matters just as much: some masonry bits are for hammer drilling, while others are for rotary mode only.

How do you drill into concrete step by step?

Mark the hole, fit a concrete-rated masonry bit, and drill straight with steady pressure. Clear dust as you go, then check that the hole is deep enough for the anchor or fastener.

1. Check the area for hidden wires, pipes, or other services.
2. Mark the hole center and required depth.
3. Fit a masonry bit that matches the hole and your drill's chuck.
4. Select hammer mode if the bit is rated for it.
5. Start slowly, holding the drill square to the surface.
6. Pause to clear dust and check the hole depth before fitting the anchor.

Wear eye and hearing protection, and follow the drill and bit makers' safety instructions. Concrete dust can irritate your eyes and lungs, so use suitable dust control and respiratory protection for the task.

If you're drilling near an edge, joint, or thin section, reconsider the location. A hole too close to an edge can chip or split the concrete.

What drill and bit do you need for concrete?

For most home concrete holes, choose a hammer drill and a carbide-tipped masonry bit rated for hammer drilling. Match the bit diameter to the anchor instructions and check that its shank fits the drill.

A hammer drill turns the bit while adding rapid hammering action. This helps break up hard masonry as the bit's cutting edges remove material.

For a few small holes, a cordless hammer drill can be a practical choice. The Bosch GSB18V-490B12 kit includes an 18V hammer drill/driver, one 2 Ah battery, and a charger, so it suits buyers who need a ready-to-use cordless setup.

The Makita XPH16Z is a tool-only hammer drill with two speeds and up to 27,000 blows per minute. Choose it if you already have compatible Makita 18V LXT batteries; skip it if you need a battery and charger in the same purchase.

For repeated large holes or very hard concrete, a rotary hammer may suit the work better than a standard hammer drill. Learn how a hammer drill differs from a regular drill before choosing a tool.

How do you choose a masonry bit for concrete?

Choose the diameter specified for your anchor, then check the bit's material, shank, and drilling mode. A bit can fit your chuck and still be wrong for the job if it's designed for rotary drilling only.

The Milwaukee Shockwave set has 5 carbide hammer drill bits in sizes from 5/32 in to 3/8 in. It suits small holes in concrete, brick, and block when you need bits intended for hammer drills; skip it if you need a larger diameter.

Bosch's BM5000 set contains 14 carbide masonry bits, from 1/8 in to 1/2 in. It offers a wider size range for rotary drilling, but it's not made for hammer drilling, so keep hammer mode off.

Check the bit's length against the hole depth. A short bit may not reach, while a much longer bit can flex more and make it harder to keep the hole straight.

For anchors, follow the anchor maker's diameter and depth instructions. Our guide to choosing a drill bit for wall anchors explains how the hole size relates to the anchor.

How do you set up a concrete drilling job?

Check the location, tool setting, bit, and target depth before you start. A short setup check can prevent a misplaced hole or a damaged bit.

First, identify what may be behind or inside the concrete. Check both sides if accessible and use a suitable detector for hidden services.

Don't drill where you suspect a live wire or pipe.

Next, confirm that the bit matches the anchor and drilling mode. Clamp or steady the work when possible, keep your stance balanced, and arrange dust control so you can see the mark and hole.

Mark the target depth on the bit or use the drill's depth stop if it has one. For anchor sizing, don't guess from the screw size alone.

How do you keep the hole straight and clear?

Hold the drill square to the surface and let the bit cut without forcing it. Starting slowly helps the bit stay on the mark instead of skating across the concrete.

Use a center punch only if the surface and bit maker allow it. Otherwise, start at low speed with light pressure until the bit has a stable starting point.

Keep the drill aligned as the hole gets deeper. Leaning on the tool can bend the bit, widen the hole, or strain the drill.

Concrete dust can clog the flutes and slow progress. Pause periodically, withdraw the bit, and clear loose dust from the hole with a method that controls dust.

Don't touch the bit right after drilling. It can be hot, and the concrete dust may be abrasive.

How deep should a concrete hole be?

Drill to the depth required by the anchor or fastener instructions. Mark that depth on the bit or use a depth stop, then remove dust and check the hole before fitting the anchor.

The hole needs room for the anchor body, and dust at the bottom can affect how it seats. A shallow hole may keep the anchor from sitting flush; a hole that's too deep may not hold the fastener as intended.

Pull the bit out and remove dust before checking depth. Powder at the bottom can make the hole seem shallower than it is.

What should you do if the bit sticks or hits metal?

Stop if the bit binds, hits metal, or makes the concrete crack. Release the trigger, keep the drill steady, and investigate before continuing.

A sudden stop can twist the drill and your wrist. Don't force a stuck bit or continue through an unknown obstruction.

If the bit repeatedly hits metal, you may have reached rebar, a plate, or another embedded object. Don't cut through it without confirming what it is and whether the location is safe to drill.

If you suspect a live wire or pipe, stop work and get qualified help. Check the location from both sides if accessible, and use a suitable detector before making another hole.

Can you use a regular drill for a concrete hole?

A regular drill may handle a small hole in softer masonry, but a hammer drill is the better choice for concrete. Without hammer action, progress can be slow and may overheat the bit or tool.

If you only have a regular drill, don't force it through hard concrete. Borrow a suitable hammer drill or rotary hammer, or have someone equipped for the task drill the hole.

A regular drill still works for materials that don't need hammer action. Keep the drill mode matched to the bit and material.

If you're choosing a first tool, our cordless drill buying guide covers the main options for home jobs. For the difference between an impact driver and a drill, see impact driver vs drill.

What mistakes should you avoid when drilling concrete?

Use the right bit and mode, start slowly, and stop if progress stalls. These choices help prevent a damaged bit, a widened hole, or cracked concrete.

Common mistakes include:

• Using a wood or metal bit in concrete.
• Running a rotary-only masonry bit in hammer mode.
• Drilling without checking for wires, pipes, or other services.
• Pushing hard when the bit stops cutting.
• Drilling close to an edge without checking the concrete thickness.
• Leaving dust packed inside the hole before fitting an anchor.

If a small hole is taking too long, check that the drill is in hammer mode and the bit is made for it. Stop and let the tool cool if it becomes unusually hot.

Brick needs a slightly different approach. Read how to drill into brick with a cordless drill before using the same method on a brick wall.

How to drill into concrete: which setup should you choose?

Pick the setup that matches your hole size, drilling mode, and battery needs. For a few small concrete holes, use a hammer drill and a hammer-rated carbide bit; for rotary-only bits, switch hammer mode off.

Choose the Bosch kit if you need a cordless hammer drill with a battery and charger. Choose the Makita tool if you already own compatible batteries, the Milwaukee set for small hammer-drilled holes, or the Bosch BM5000 for a range of rotary-drilling sizes.

For more setup and control tips, see how to use a hammer drill at home. Keep the anchor maker's hole-size and depth instructions nearby while you work.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drill into concrete with a regular cordless drill?

A regular drill may make a small hole in softer masonry, but it lacks the hammering action that helps a bit cut concrete. Use a hammer drill and a masonry bit for concrete, and follow the tool and bit instructions.

For repeated or large holes, a rotary hammer may be a better fit.

What drill bit should you use for concrete?

Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit sized for the hole and anchor. Check that its shank fits your drill and that the bit is approved for hammer drilling.

Some masonry bits are designed only for rotary drilling, so confirm the bit's intended use before switching on hammer mode.

Should you use hammer mode for every concrete hole?

Hammer mode is useful for concrete when the bit is designed for hammer drilling. Follow the tool and bit instructions, and use rotary mode when the bit or task requires it.

A bit made only for rotary drilling should not be used in hammer mode.

How do you keep a concrete drill hole from getting too deep?

Mark the target depth on the bit with a stop collar or a small piece of tape, then drill in short passes and check your progress. Use a drill depth stop if your tool has one.

Keep dust clear enough to see the mark, and don't rely on tape as a substitute for a proper stop.